Banyuwangi : The Land of Mystic Fragrance Water
I received an invitation to attend an International
conference on Communication at Banyuwangi in Indonesia. I never heard about the
place, I enquired with number of frequent foreign travelers but could not get
any vital information. I approached few tour operators as well as travel agencies here in Bombay but initially
they draw blank and when I told them my urgency
to visit the place, I got quote for to and fro journey roughly Indian
Rs.120,000 which to me was on very high side as I normally reach any US
destination at the best at Indian Rs 75,000. Then I decided to search on
various airlines sites, after thorough search, I myself picked up two airlines
- Srilankan upto Jakarta and City Link from Jakarta to Banyuwangi, in this
quest I managed my return tickets for Indian Rs.42,000 !
I was full of doubts
about the place Banyuwangi, and my worry increased when I enquired with my
hotel manager at Jakarta to find details about the place and he almost shown
his complete ignorance, in fact he was not sure whether this place is in
Indonesia that raised my blood pressure and I started reprimanding myself to
take a decision to go to this place. However, the organizers had given me
little rosy picture about the venue, which they claimed a five-star property. So,
I had little consolation that even if the place is non-descriptive but at-least
the stay will be comfortable.
But the moment I landed in Banyuwangi, I quickly found that
this is slice of haven on earth. I enjoyed my stay and regretted why I had planned
such a short stay.
Banyuwangi is a gem located in East Java, long neglected
to put on world tourist map . But now the government agencies and tourism
industry woken up and start promoting this place. The town is small, very green
and clean. It has beautiful beaches, great surf and stunning nature. I have returned
from the place loaded with unforgettable memories of place and its friendly
people.
Kemiren Village
Our group visited this village to enjoy traditional food and
traditional Barong dances. It is home of the Osing Tribe who preserves its age old tradition and rituals.
The history of Kemiren dated way back to the time of the fallen days of
Majapahit Kingdom. Where many of the population fled to various region to start
a new life. The ancestors of the Osing then settled in the eastern part of Java
in Banyuwangi region and established the Blambangan Kingdom. They declined to
move back to Majapahit, and therefore named as the "Osing" people,
which in their language means "no”. After 200 years of glory, the Hindu
Buddhist culture of Blambangan then overthrown by the rapid growth of Islam,
which led to the new reign of the Islamic Mataram Kingdom.
During the independence war in the 1800s, Cungking village was where the Osing people originally dwells, but Cungking was gradually abandoned as people were running away from the Dutch troops to a densely forested area nearby. There were so many Kemiri and Duren (Durian) trees growing on the thick forest, that soon became their new home. They settle down and named their village after both trees, Kemiri-Duren merged as Kemiren.
As descendants of a multicultural past, the Osing developed an interestingly different customs and language sets from its neighboring Javanese, Maduranese and Balinese people. They even have a fascinating set of tone in order to convey respectfull communication with the elders, or a more casual tone to address their peers.
Kemiren's Chief of Tradition described that back in the early days, every family have three kind of houses built to serve several functions. The two-sided roof or Rumah Crocogan is the forefront used to welcome guests. The four-sided roof is named the Tikel Balung, housing the family room and bedrooms. There was no partition in original Osing homes. Mattrasses was only covered with sheer veil for privacy. The three-sided roof named the Baresan is located in the back as kitchen. The Osing’s entrance are usually ornamented with wood carvings of certain pattern, such as the Kawung.
During the independence war in the 1800s, Cungking village was where the Osing people originally dwells, but Cungking was gradually abandoned as people were running away from the Dutch troops to a densely forested area nearby. There were so many Kemiri and Duren (Durian) trees growing on the thick forest, that soon became their new home. They settle down and named their village after both trees, Kemiri-Duren merged as Kemiren.
As descendants of a multicultural past, the Osing developed an interestingly different customs and language sets from its neighboring Javanese, Maduranese and Balinese people. They even have a fascinating set of tone in order to convey respectfull communication with the elders, or a more casual tone to address their peers.
Kemiren's Chief of Tradition described that back in the early days, every family have three kind of houses built to serve several functions. The two-sided roof or Rumah Crocogan is the forefront used to welcome guests. The four-sided roof is named the Tikel Balung, housing the family room and bedrooms. There was no partition in original Osing homes. Mattrasses was only covered with sheer veil for privacy. The three-sided roof named the Baresan is located in the back as kitchen. The Osing’s entrance are usually ornamented with wood carvings of certain pattern, such as the Kawung.
We were taken to their village from the main road in a
procession with many dancers in the attire of Garud and village God. We enjoyed
iconic performance Jejer Gandrung — a dance escorted by a musical serenade
called Gending Padha Nonton we were fascinated by the vibrant colors of their
elaborate costumes! The dance movements reminded me North Eastern part of
India. The unique sound of Angklung Paglak, originally perform on 3 meters
above the ground! Lesung Musical is another wonderful traditional tune composed
to a genuine masterpiece of the Osing to celebrate their abundance in life. One
of the signature performance was Barong Ider Bumi, which they normally perform
as cleansing rituals to repel negative influences such as evil spirits,
disease, pest and anything that can disrupt the wellbeing of the villagers.
There food is simple cooked in the traditional way with many cuisine based on
rice.
Kongco Tan Hu Cin Jin Temple
The Kongco Tan Hu Cin Jin Temple is worth visiting. It is dedicated to Chen Fu Zen and was built in 1784. Zen is a spiritual figure among the Chinese Indonesian community who live in Bali, East Java and Lombok.
The Kongco Tan Hu Cin Jin Temple is worth visiting. It is dedicated to Chen Fu Zen and was built in 1784. Zen is a spiritual figure among the Chinese Indonesian community who live in Bali, East Java and Lombok.
Purwo Temple
It is located in Alas Purwo National Park and a symbol of Javanese civilisation, Purwo Temple rises from the mangrove forest and is placed at the confluence between two rivers.
Built to remind the Javanese about their ancestors and origin, and that the archipelago was first discovered in the East,the temple is aptly named “purwo”, which means oldest. It is also nestled in the oldest forest in Java.
Strategically situated at the crossroads between islands, the temple is a unique place where different communities visit and offer their prayers, especially the Hindus from Bali and the Hindus from Tegaldlimo district.
This place is also known for its rich rituals, art and cultural performances and local social gatherings.
Plambangan Museum
This Museum is located in Banyuwangi town. It has several exhibits on glorious past of East Java, its rich culture and batik art. The museum is quite old and awaits significant investment if it is going to attract tourists. If you are spending a few days visiting Banyuwangi consider visiting the museum as there are some things of interest to see. If you are only passing through town quickly then don’t add this to your ‘to do’ list.
Ijen Crater
It’s easy to understand why the Midnight Ijen Crater Tour is
so popular. Ijen is an active volcano that looms over the town. The volcano is
famous for its sulphur miners, striking yellow landscape and the blue flames
that appear at night. It’s a only 45 minute drive from Banyuwangi . We took the
cheapest option to travel Ijen, a shared tour and costed only Rp 150,000 per person.
Baluran Savannah
The Baluran National Park is another big tourist draw and aptly called African Savannah of Java. IThe savannah turns brown in the dry season and the park is surrounded on one side by the sea and ringed by hills and Ijen volcano. The park has a lot of wildlife that includes buffalo, antelope, monkeys and peacock For the best view of the park make sure to climb the watchtower. We had limited time at our disposal so we combined Baluran National Park with the Ijen Midnight Tour.
The Baluran National Park is another big tourist draw and aptly called African Savannah of Java. IThe savannah turns brown in the dry season and the park is surrounded on one side by the sea and ringed by hills and Ijen volcano. The park has a lot of wildlife that includes buffalo, antelope, monkeys and peacock For the best view of the park make sure to climb the watchtower. We had limited time at our disposal so we combined Baluran National Park with the Ijen Midnight Tour.
Kalibaru Rail Tour
For those who don’t want to drive or walk excessively to
enjoy the natural scenery of Banyuwangi, the best option is to take a train
ride. Starting from Kalibaru station to Mrawan PP station, the rail tour will
take you through coffee plantations at 400 metre high, passing Mount Gumitir
with its unique breeze, and stops
briefly in a dark tunnel to give quick photo opportunity.
The train has a capacity of only 16 passengers, and in case group is around 15-16 people rent the entire train for Rp.1,200,000 (approximately USD $90) ! The trip takes around 50 minutes.
Besides enjoying natural scenery from the train, it also give a slice of history of the railway system in Indonesia. The rail tour operates on Saturday and Sunday, but it is still possible to book a trip on weekdays if one wishes to do so.
The train has a capacity of only 16 passengers, and in case group is around 15-16 people rent the entire train for Rp.1,200,000 (approximately USD $90) ! The trip takes around 50 minutes.
Besides enjoying natural scenery from the train, it also give a slice of history of the railway system in Indonesia. The rail tour operates on Saturday and Sunday, but it is still possible to book a trip on weekdays if one wishes to do so.
Wedi Ireng Beach
Wedi Ireng Beach is 65 km to the South of Banyuwangi. The beach gets its name because of the color of the sand (Wedi means ‘sand’ in Javanese and Ireng means ‘black.’ Ironically the sand is actually white, but there is black sand underneath the surface. The beach is not very busy and the perfect escape if you want to surround yourself with nature.
Sukamade Beach
Wedi Ireng Beach is 65 km to the South of Banyuwangi. The beach gets its name because of the color of the sand (Wedi means ‘sand’ in Javanese and Ireng means ‘black.’ Ironically the sand is actually white, but there is black sand underneath the surface. The beach is not very busy and the perfect escape if you want to surround yourself with nature.
Sukamade Beach
Sukamade is a great place for an off road adventure. Turtles also come to Sukamade Beach almost every night of the year to lay their eggs here.
Sukamade Beach is located 96 km away from Bayuwangi in Meru Betiri National Park. The beach is famous as a turtle hatchery. Almost every day of the year turtles will come to Sukamade Beach to lay their eggs. You can arrange a guided tour to Sukamade Beach from Banyuwangi The Sukamade Tour is a two day one night tour. On the tour you sleep overnight in the National Park and go trekking in the evening to see the turtles come to lay their eggs. It’s an amazing experience.
Pantai Plengkung
It is a perfect place for surfing. It often referred to as G-Land on ‘to do list’ for your trip to Banyuwangi. It has ideal surf break for experienced surfers with shallow reef breaks and long barrel waves. The Plengkung Beach is isolated. There are number of surf camps along the beach to stay when you visit G-Land. It is also possible to have a day long visit.
It is a perfect place for surfing. It often referred to as G-Land on ‘to do list’ for your trip to Banyuwangi. It has ideal surf break for experienced surfers with shallow reef breaks and long barrel waves. The Plengkung Beach is isolated. There are number of surf camps along the beach to stay when you visit G-Land. It is also possible to have a day long visit.
Tabuhan Island
Tabuhan Island is located 20 km from Banyuwangi. The best way to take a public boat. The island is about 5 square km and is surrounded by white sandy beaches with coral reefs offshore that are fed by the nutrient rich waters that flow in the channel between Bali and Java. This is ideal destination for deep diving and snorkelling . While snorkelling here enjoy breathtaking view of sponges, crayfish, and lot of other fish species. Dive tours are available from Banyuwangi to Tabuhan Island.
Red Island
Tabuhan Island is located 20 km from Banyuwangi. The best way to take a public boat. The island is about 5 square km and is surrounded by white sandy beaches with coral reefs offshore that are fed by the nutrient rich waters that flow in the channel between Bali and Java. This is ideal destination for deep diving and snorkelling . While snorkelling here enjoy breathtaking view of sponges, crayfish, and lot of other fish species. Dive tours are available from Banyuwangi to Tabuhan Island.
Red Island
Red Island directly in front of the beach. The area is big attraction among the surfers for its
breaks. It is 85 km from Banyuwangi. Many tourists come to this island for its virgin beach, relaxed atmosphere and great surfing
opportunity. Few hotels and home-stay options are also available close to
beach for reasonable price.. In fact, if
you want a less crowded virgin destination then the Red Island is ideal
destination.
Lord Of The Ring Trees
The De Djawatan Benculuk area is developed by a private entreprenuer close to Banyuwangi. It has trembesi trees which are more than 100 years old. The trees look like the one shown in famous film Lord of The Rings. So, the De Djawatan Benculuk area management has created several photo spots for visitors. Two of the spots are elevated to afford a good view of the trees as well as on old trucks on the ground for photographs. Footpaths are also set out for visitors who want to have unique experience.The area is now popular for pre-wedding pictures and as a picnic destination. Celin, 26, a visitor, said that she had found out about the park on Instagram. She had come to visit it with some friends from university."I had originally thought it would be just average. When I came here, it turned out to be even better than on Instagram. It's like [being in] the Lord of the Rings," Celin said, referring to this fantasy movie.
Lord Of The Ring Trees
The De Djawatan Benculuk area is developed by a private entreprenuer close to Banyuwangi. It has trembesi trees which are more than 100 years old. The trees look like the one shown in famous film Lord of The Rings. So, the De Djawatan Benculuk area management has created several photo spots for visitors. Two of the spots are elevated to afford a good view of the trees as well as on old trucks on the ground for photographs. Footpaths are also set out for visitors who want to have unique experience.The area is now popular for pre-wedding pictures and as a picnic destination. Celin, 26, a visitor, said that she had found out about the park on Instagram. She had come to visit it with some friends from university."I had originally thought it would be just average. When I came here, it turned out to be even better than on Instagram. It's like [being in] the Lord of the Rings," Celin said, referring to this fantasy movie.
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