Lord Padmanabham Temple : Deja Vu Feeling

A year back, I was watching a news channel. It was showing a news item about a temple located in Trivandrum, having secret underground chambers containing huge treasure trove of  jewelry and artifacts of gold, precious stones and other precious metals. The channel also claimed that if the  treasure in these secret chambers is properly valued and accounted for than it will cross one Trillion Dollar. It was announced that a hidden treasure vault had been discovered beyond the already well-documented Vault B inside. Adding to last treasure findings in several other vaults, the researchers are estimating could much more than the previous estimates. But that is where the problem starts, nobody wants to dare open the hidden inner sanctum. Like all hidden treasure stories, this Temple has been a fascination for many years, and one shrouded in mystery and fear. It was also rumored two enormous Cobras are  protecting the innermost hidden chamber. To make matters worse, legend has it that anyone who opens the vault will be met with disastrous results.

The mysterious Vault B has kept everyone at bay for many years, although five other vaults were opened in 2011 by a team approved by the Supreme Court. The inventory unveiled a major priceless treasure. Massive piles of jewels, idols, and coins were uncovered.  

 While watching the coverage, I saw the camera panning in the temple complex premises. The visuals I saw  on the screen were almost a kind of hair raising experience for me, I had seen the places in a number of dream sequences. Did I ever had any connection with this temple, why I had seen this temple in my dreams so many times in the past. Frankly speaking, I had never visited Trivandrum or for that matter any other part of Kerala.

I decided to visit and explore the place. I tried on number of time, drawn itinerary checked flights but could not materialize.

I was in Seattle in the month of July this year, I got a  mail to know that whether I am interested in inSIG2017 fellowship program to be held in October. I applied and shortlisted for the program with all expenses to be paid by the organizers. And surprise of surprise, it was scheduled in Trivandrum !

I reached Trivandrum for the program, we were staying at Ginger in Techno-Park area. I expressed my intent to fellow roommate Adarsh to visit the temple, many more agreed. A local suggested that the best time for the Darshan is Brahm Muhurat. We got up around 2.30 in the morning, took bath, called Ola cab, precisely at 3.15 we were there in the temple complex.

The moment I saw big pond close to the temple, it was almost like I recognize the area so well. Suddenly its name struck to my mind - Padmatheertham, in fact now I was walking faster than other friends. My steps were precisely taking us in the right direction as if I am from this area only. We all were simply  awestruck at its decadence, architecture, serenity at 3.30 am. 

 Before sharing my experience about my one and half hour stay in the complex, I will share the past and present of the temple.

This is after all the richest religious  place in the world!     

The temple complex is dedicated to Lord Padmanabhaswamy or Vishnu.The city was also named after lord's name.

 No body knows for sure when exactly this temple was actually constructed .The origin  is lost in antiquity. It is not possible to determine with any exactitude, from any reliable historical documents or other sources as to when and by whom the original idol of Sree Padmanabhaswamy was consecrated. Ofcourse, their is a reference of temple in Puranas. Srimad Bhagavat mentions that Balarama visited this Temple, bathed in Padmatheertham and made several offerings. 

Nammalwar, 9th century poet and one among the 12 Vaishnavite saints of the Alvar tradition, has composed ten hymns in praise of Lord Padmanabha. Some well known scholars, writers and historians, like  L.A.Ravi Varma believed that this Temple was established on the first day of Kali Yuga some 5000 years ago. The legends of the Temple are handed down through the centuries. One such legend which finds a place in the old palm leaf records of the Temple, as also in the famous grantha  “Ananthasayana Mahatmya”, mentions that it was consecrated by a Tulu Brahmin hermit named Divakara Muni and on the 950th year of Kali Yuga a reinstallation of the idol was done. In the 960th Kali year King Kotha Marthandan built the Abhisravana Mandapam.

Another generally accepted version about the origin of the Temple relates it to the famous Namboothiri Sanyasi Vilvamangalathu Swamiyar, whose name is linked with the histories of several temples in Southern India. This Swamiyar was also a Vishnu devotee. It is said that, when Sree Maha Vishnu presented himself in the Ananthasayana posture   reclining on Anantha before the sage at Ananthankaadu, the latter had nothing worthwhile to offer Him. From a mango tree standing nearby he plucked a few unripe mangoes and placed them in a coconut shell lying there and in all humility offered it as ‘nivedyam’ to the Lord. Even today salted mango forms a major offering. The original coconut shell has been encased in gold. It has also been the practice in the Temple for the past several centuries that the morning ‘pushpanjali’ is to be performed by a Namboothiri Brahmin Sanyasi specially commissioned for this purpose.

These traditional customs coupled with the fact that the Pushpanjali Swamiyar holds a position of importance in the ‘Ettara Yogam’, it is a sort of committee which, at one time in the distant past, was the governing body of the Temple but has, over the years, become a ceremonial and advisory panel lend substance and some measures of credence to the theory that this Temple was founded by Vilvamangalathu Swamiyar. On the other hand the legend of the Divakara Muni can be substantiated by the presence of a large number of Tulu Brahmins. Besides being represented in the ‘Yogam’, the Namboothiri Brahmins also have a position of eminence in the rituals and ceremonies of the ttemple . The Tantries or the high priests have always been from the Tharananalloor family belonging to this community. It is also believed that the small Sree Krishna Swamy Temple, located near the Western Swamiyar Madham , residence of one of the two Pushpanjali Swamiyars of the Temple, has been built over the Samadhi of Vilvamangalathu Swamiyar.

Some historians and researchers hold the view that the Thiruvambadi shrine of Sree Krishna Swamy is older than the shrine of Sree Padmanabhaswamy. According to legend the Sree Narasimhaswamy and Sree Sastha shrines were established after the installation of the idol of Lord Sree Padmanabhaswamy. There is mention in the ‘Bhagavat Purana’ (canto 10, chapter 79) that Sree Balarama visited “Syanandoorapuram” or “Ananthasayam” (Thiruvananthapuram) in the course of His pilgrimage. Similarly in the ‘Brahmanda Purana’ also there is a reference to “Syanandoorapura”. These references show that this Temple is of great antiquity and has been held in veneration over the centuries as an important seat of Sree Maha Vishnu. The compositions of Nammalvar, the great Vaishnavite saint, in praise of Sree Maha Vishnu of this city, prove beyond doubt that this Temple existed in the ninth century of this era. In the tenth century, the Temple was reconstructed and the management re-organized by the then ruler.

The next important recorded events relate to the period between 1335 A.D. and 1384 A.D. when Venad area was ruled by  Veer Martanda Varma. He gradually established his authority completely over the management and administration of the Temple. There are records to indicate that in the year 1375 A.D. the Alpasi Utsavam (ten days festival held in October-November) was conducted in the Temple. 

It was in the year 1729 that Raja Marthanda Varma became the king of Travancore. He took the steps to renovate the Temple. In 1730 the idol was again moved to ‘Balalaya’ prior to the renovation and reconstruction of the sanctum sanctorum. It took two years to complete the project. The old wooden idol was replaced by the one that we see today. Made of highly complex amalgam known as Katusarkarayogam, it contains 12008 Saligrams within it. Most of what is seen today within the walls of the temple were constructed. It is recorded that 4000 sculptors, 6000 laborers and 100 elephants worked for 6 months to finish the construction of the Sreebalipura (the oblong corridor). This magnificent rectangular corridor built of solid stones protects the Deities during seeveli on rainy days. The Gopuram for which the foundation had been laid in 1566, was built during this period. Similarly the flag-staff in front of the main shrine was also erected at this time. Teak wood of required size was brought from the forest for this purpose and transported to the Temple in such a way that no part of the wood touched the ground. The pole was then covered completely with gold sheets. 

The renovation of Padmatheertham, the Temple tank in the form we see it today was also undertaken during this great ruler’s time.

Fifth Makaram in 17th century, stood witness to the act of a sublime dedication and the ultimate offering possible for a crowned head – the Tripadi Danam. After the completion of certain religious ceremonies Raja Marthanda Varma arrived in the Temple along with the male family members, his trusted Diwan and other officials. In presence of the Swamiyar, members of the Yogam and Brahmins, Raja submitted to Sree Padmanabha Prajapati, his entire State of Travancore along with his total right on it thereof by placing the Crown, the royal umbrella, the twin white Chauries (fans), the Manikandha – which were all symbols of royalty, along with some tulsi leaves on the Mandapam. Last but most significant, he placed his famous sword, the unquestioned insignia of sovereign authority, which the King valued the most and which had lashed its unleashed velour in countless battle fields in the steps of the Ottakkal Mandapam. Even before this, that the male members of the royal family, at the age of one, ware laid on the Ottakkal Mandapam and surrendered to Sree Padmanabhaswamy as His own, gaining the supreme title ‘Sree Padmanabha Dasa’.

In 1758, during the reign of Raja  Karthika Rama Varma, the fabulous Kulasekhara Mandapam was build. It is a marvelous and fantastic architectural work on stone and supported by 28 balustrades of pillars. The pillars on the four corners can produce musical notes when touched.

In 1820 a very big mural mirroring the Ananthasayanam, was drawn during the period of Rani Gaury Parvati Bai.

Rajas and Maharajas of Travancore were so much impressed with divine power of the temple that they felt proud  to be its Dasa. Raja Chithira Rama Varma ranks as one among the most illustrious royal personalities, who ruled in his dual capacity as Dasa and Ruler. He ruled as a Sage among Kings. The Kshethra Praveshan Vilambram or the Temple Entry Proclamation was in 1936 which was the epoch-making event of the Raja’s religious and political life. This Proclamation, issued on the eve of his twenty forth birthday, has been considered by evaluators as the most socially progressive and religiously liberal ordinance enacted in India. It was a revolutionary and courageous action initiated for the first time in the country towards the eradication of untouchability. The rest of India followed his footsteps.

Both the Tripadi Danam and the Kshethrapraveshana Vilambaram made history and stand out by themselves as lasting tributes to the vastness of heart and sublimity of conception of those who visualized them.

In 1991, after the demise of Sree Padmanabha Dasa Chithira Rama Varma, Sree Uthradam  Marthanda Varma assumed charge of the Sree Padmanabhaswamy Temple. In compliance with the sanction already accorded by Sree Chithira , Sree Uthradam conducted the Kodi Archana in the Sree Padmanabhaswamy Temple. In 1992, Maharaja Sree Chithira Thirunal’s personal worship idols were installed inside the Temple premises.

The mass chanting of Sahasranama was newly introduced on public request. The gold covering of the main Balikkal which was started two years before was completed in 1993. Playing of the percussion instrument known as ‘Edakka’ re-introduced in 1994. Another important work of that year was the gold work in the narrow window-like part at the feet of the Lord on the northern side of the outer wall of the sanctum. The Murajapam and Lakshadeepam were also conducted in the Temple in the grand manner which occurs once in six years. The last Lakshadeepam celebrated in 2014 and the next falls on 2020.

Temple Complex

In the sanctum sanctorum, Padmanabha reclines on the serpent Anantha or Adi Sesha.The serpent has five hoods facing inwards, signifying contemplation. The Lord's right hand is placed over a  Shiva Lingam. Sridevi-Lakshmi, the Goddess of Prosperity and Bhudevi the Goddess of Earth, two consorts of Vishnu are by his side. Brahma  emerges on a lotus, which emanates from the navel of the Lord. The deity is made from 12,008 saligrams. These saligrams are from the banks of the Gandak River in Nepal, and to commemorate this certain rituals used to be performed at the Pashupatinath Temple in Kathmandu. The deity of Padmanabha is covered with, "Katusarkara yogam", a special ayurvedic mix, which forms a plaster that keeps the deity clean. The daily worship is with flowers and for the abhishekam, special deities are used.

The platforms in front of the vimanam and where the deity rests, are both carved out of a single massive stone It was cut out of a rock at Thirumala, about 4 miles (6.4 km) north of the temple in the year 1706–58. In order to perform darshan and puja, one has to ascend to the mandapam . The Deity is visible through three doors – the visage of the reclining Lord and Siva Linga underneath the hand is seen through the first door; Sridevi and Bhrigu Muni in Katusarkara, Brahma seated on a lotus emanating from the Lord's navel, hence the name, "Padmanabha", gold abhisheka idols of Lord Padmanabha, Sridevi and Bhudevi, and silver utsava moorthi of Padmanabha through the second door; the Lord's feet, and Bhudevi and Markandeya Muni in Katusarkara through the third door. The idols of two goddesses holding chamaram,  Garuda, Narada, Tumburu, the divine forms of the six weapons of Lord Vishnu, Surya, Chandra and Saptarshis, Madhu and Kaitabha are also there in the Sanctum. Only the King of Travancore may perform sashtanga namaskaram, or prostrate on the "Ottakkal Mandapam". It is traditionally held that anybody who prostrates on the mandapam has surrendered all that he possesses to the Deity. Since the ruler has already done that, he is permitted to prostrate on this mandapam.

Inside the Temple, there are two other important shrines, Thekkedom and Thiruvambadi, for the Deities,  Ugra Narasimha and Krishna Swami respectively. Thiruvambadi shrine enjoys an independent status and predates the shrine of Padmanabha. Thiruvambadi shrine has its own namaskara mandapam, bali stones and flagmast. The Lord of Thiruvambadi is Parthasarathi, the Divine Charioteer of  Arjun. The granite idol of the Lord of Thiruvambadi was brought from Gujarat by seventy two families of Vrishni Vamsa Kshatriyas. As these Vrishnies belong to the lineage of Lord Krishna, they are known as Krishnan vakakkar. The two-armed granite idol, with one hand holding the whip and the other resting on the left thigh holding the conch close to it, is in standing posture. On  Ekadshi days the Lord is dressed and decorated as Mohini. There are also shrines for Rama  accompanied by Sita, Lakshman and Hanuman, Vishwaksena (the Nirmalyadhari of Vishnu and Remover of Obstacles),  Vyasa, Ganapati, Sasta  and Kshetrapala, who guards the temple. Grand idols of Garuda and Hanuman stand with folded hands in the Valiya Balliyal area.

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We were standing close to railing in front of Lord's idol. Even at 3.30 in the morning, there was a  big crowd.  People were standing with folding hands, I was a part of that crowd but speechless, unable to pray  but tears were poring from my eyes. I remained in that state for almost twenty minutes, no body pushed me and allowed me search my persona. It was a very different journey of  my life to connect with the place which probably been a part of me since eternity.